Color Story

Color is what radiates life to our eyes. It is the essence of all things organic in nature and what we strive to faithfully recreate in our art forms. Color is a sustaining renewable resource because no matter how devastating natural disasters can be to the landscape, color eventually returns without any artificial persuasion. At night, color becomes a magnificent study in gray scale values, but few realize that those dark and light contrasts are the underlying rules of how color is structured and composed to be pleasing to the senses.

It is difficult to imagine a world without color, but most of the time we take it for granted. Color is as automatic to us as breathing air or walking. We barely scratch the surface in viewing the incredible abundance or intensity of colors in our environment because we have grown so accustomed to its seasonal vibrancy. We expect it, and we depend on color to be a constant force in our daily life. We wake up every day to a bright yellow sun, or stroll through lush green gardens with colorful flowers, or perhaps catch sight of a bright red cardinal bird. Even snow has a brilliance, a white that is unmatched by any other visual sensation.

In ancient times color was viewed as a precious commodity and some colors were very costly to make. Ownership of certain colors also represented status in society. Purple, for instance, was a symbol of wealth and power, and was reserved for only the rich because of the vast amount of raw materials and labor it took to make it. An ounce of purple dye, hand made by processing thousands of murex mollusks, was more costly than gold. Even vegetable dyes back then were not nearly as brilliant as the murex purple, nor as durable. Yet today we have literally millions of hue variations available in intensities and values at our fingertips. Our textiles and cosmetics are bursting with tints, tones, and shades of colors that would have been impossible to make or even forbidden to own in those ancient times.

Color has a strong psychological influence, even at the subliminal level, and can cause us to be attracted or repelled by its visual characteristics. It is the robust ingredient used to create the atmosphere and setting for celebrations, such as weddings, or holidays like Christmas. Color has intrigue that has been studied with passion by philosophers, physicists, and scientists throughout the ages seeking to master its phenomenal elements. From ancient Greeks (Aristotle) to 17th century alchemist, Sir Isaac Newton, and the celebrated 19th century Polymath, Johann Goethe, to the 20th century painter, Albert Munsell, color theory exploration has produced a body of rules, ideas, and principles by these men and others along the way that have been used to interpret the art, science, and vocabulary of color.

There will continue to be lofty discussions about color theory, and much of it boils down to opinions based on how the studies and research are interpreted. For instance, is light triadic in nature or is it a continuum? Are the primary colors (red, blue, and green) simply light waves that emit from a prism, or is it colorless energy picked up by brain receptor primaries (considered to be cyan, magenta, and yellow) and translated in varying percentages of what our eyes perceive through them?

No doubt, color can be complicated and the scientific aspects of color exploration alone could fill volumes. From Sir Isaac Newton’s first color wheel design to today's professional colorists who forecast best selling colors and their combinations to manufacturers, it's a fact that color will continue to define almost every facet of our existence.

Regardless of how we personally rate color's importance in our lives, it is an active and sustaining ingredient we experience every moment we are alive. As summer draws to a close let’s take a fresh look at the fabulous colors coming our way in the next few weeks as the Fall season begins. As makeup artists, we can view some of the best examples of color theory in the raw, and study a bit in nature to help hone our creative abilities.

Adventures in Home Hair Coloring

I am one of those blessed women who inherited the "later in life” gray hair gene. My mother didn’t start covering her strands of grays until she was nearly 60, and it seems I am following right behind her. Well, I have to admit I actually started my first time ever hair coloring adventure on myself a couple of years ago when I started noticing them sprinkled around my hairline.

Actress Jane Seymour was hawking a home hair coloring product in a TV commercial around that time, so I was convinced if lovely Jane could still have fabulous looking long tresses coloring them herself (if indeed she really does color them herself) then it was a no brainer for me to give it a try.

Like many women standing at the portal of first time hair coloring I found it a bit overwhelming wading through the myriad of color choices available at my local drug store. As I compared options I also pondered the outcome of a potential disaster if I didn’t select the right one that would be close enough to merge with my natural color. With my fair skin tone and medium brown hair that had golden and red highlights I knew I didn’t want to end up looking like a high contrast dye job.

Finding the right gray covering product that was subtle enough blend in well with my natural hair color characteristics was definitely my immediate goal. So, I decided to go with a very short term Level 1 (semi-permanent) formula in light golden brown that would wash out within 6 shampoos. It had no ammonia or peroxide so that if it ended up looking bad it would only take a couple of weeks to wash completely out. It makes experimenting fun because with this kind of gently hair color formula you really can't do any harm.

One thing is certain, that as we get older our skin tone becomes paler because the pigmentation in our skin doesn’t regenerate with the same intensity as it did in our youth. The same is basically true for natural hair color, and it loses its natural luster as the gray sets in. Once I found the product that worked for me it became a dance to figure out how to make the color last as long as I could in-between applications.

My gray hair patterning is largely in the front of my face and around my hairline, so it looks like I have more highlights that contrast nicely with my natural hair color. There is no doubt about it, I loved the results I got with home hair coloring and covering gray around my face does brighten my look for a more youthful appearance.

I discovered that gray or silver hair can typically be color resistant, and this was true for my hair, so I have to leave the color solution on for the maximum amount of time recommended in the directions. I also found that alternating with two different strengths of semi-permanent dyes (one washes out within 6-12 shampoos, the other washes out within 12-24) does a great job of touching up the color while helping to keep my hair in better condition. Overall, home hair coloring takes much less time and expense than going to a salon and at this stage of the game for me the results look very natural and believable to the eye.

So to all of you out there who are wading into the first time gray hair coloring waters, here are my 10 tips to help make the experience a little more secure with believable results and longer wear. They will also save you some money and time between coloring sessions.

1. The day before coloring wash your hair with a clarifying (detergent) type shampoo, and allow to air dry. This will remove any conditioning or styling product residue so that the color can fully penetrate the hair shaft, which will also allow the color to wear and last longer.

1. Install a shower filter that filters out chorine. Unfiltered tap water contains strong amounts of chlorine, which is a bleaching agent and will cause hair color to fade faster. Tap water also has mineral sediments that can bind to the hair and interfere with optimal color adhesion. A filter takes out most of the unwanted sediments and it is also great for the skin!

3. Choose a demi-permanent color to start with that is actually ½ to 1 shade lighter than your natural hair color. Hair color typically takes bit darker than described on the box. For instance, I use a light golden brown color even though my actual hair color is medium brown. This gives me a perfect blend with my own hair color and the highlights are more evenly distributed throughout.

4. When you apply the color, avoid putting it on the ends until the last 10 minutes. Hair is much more porous on the ends so it absorbs quicker. You will get more even color results throughout the hair strands if you don’t over saturate the color on the ends.

5. Wait at least 48 to 72 hours after coloring hair to shampoo. This will allow the hair color molecules to fully saturate the hair strands and result in longer wear between color applications.

6. Use a shampoo that is made for color treated hair, and don’t rinse in hot water. Hot water expands the hair shaft and contributes to faster fading. Always use lukewarm water to shampoo and rinse hair.

7. Allow hair to air dry after coloring and avoid using a blow dryer for two days following your color application. The hair dryer on fresh color will add a slight dullness to the color that is permanent, and you will end up having to use shine enhancing products to bring it back to full intensity.

8. Use an ionic dryer which is kinder to color and to hair, and dries hair faster without dulling down or frizzing out the hair texture.

9. Use a conditioner that has sunscreen in it to help protect your color, and keep it from possibly turning a brassy looking color. If you use a curling iron or hot rollers use a thermal styling spray that will help keep the heat from penetrating the hair shaft too deeply and breaking down the dye adhesion molecules.

10. About 2 -3 weeks after coloring use a color enhancing shampoo every other time you wash your hair. These kinds of shampoos have ingredients that enhance the hue and boost shine. When you get close to needing to color again, try a color glossing product to get the last bit of wear out of your fading color. These products intensify the color with shine so that you have the illusion of fresh looking color.

All the Flutter about Eyelash Extensions

It seems that every red carpet event these days is also a walking celebrity advertisement for full, lush looking glamorous eyelashes. Semi-permanent lash applications, better known as lash extensions, are fast becoming one of the most requested beauty services and makeup artists are adding this skill to their service offerings, especially for brides. Eyelash extensions are a fabulous way for the average person to bring a little more drama to their eyes that will enhance their overall features for a more glamorous look.

What is it about eyelash extensions that have become all the rage? For one thing you can have long naturally looking lashes that feel weightless and look simply beautiful 24/7, and with little need for mascara. The eyelash extension technique was created in Asia and its popularity quickly made its way West. Now there are so many eyelash extension companies that have sprung up to cash in on the craze that it makes it a little more difficult to find the right training that results in good technique with quality materials. However there are a couple of very reputable companies out there that have solid and stringent requirements for certifying artists in the procedure.

Traditional false eyelashes are applied by a strip and glued directly under the lid table. Individual false lashes are knotted clusters and placed between the lashes with glue. The problem with both of these methods is that if the strip or cluster lash is done incorrectly they are very noticeable to the eye. What’s worse is that the strip and knotted cluster is easily seen on an actor in HDTV, and if too much glue is used then it becomes very distracting and you lose the original intent of lash enhancement.

Eyelash extensions solve the problem for actors working in HD because these are applied directly to the individual lash one by one for a natural look and feel. They provide customized length and volume to the natural lash for a full and lush look that sometimes doesn’t require additional enhancement from mascara. A good application is seamless to the eye, and the wearer should not even be aware of them if they have been properly applied. Brides simply love the look in their videos and photographs. What woman doesn’t love to look glamorous for that special occasion, or have beautiful looking lashes just for every day wear?

Eyelash extensions can last 8 weeks or more, depending on how they are cared for. A good application is applied with an adhesive that is soft and flexible and moves naturally with the lash. Because the extension is bonded to each lash individually, they will naturally fall out when the lash reaches its natural shedding stage. Extensions do require maintenance to keep continuity in the look. You will require a touch-up every two to three weeks to replace any lashes that have fallen out so it will blend with new growth coming in.

Eyelash extensions are a time and money investment that requires upkeep, and you need to consider those factors if you decide to wear them. It can take up to two hours to have the initial full set done, and they need to be kept on a regular basis to maintain the look. A very small number of people may be allergic to the glue so if you think you may be one of them I would recommend you pay for a trial attachment of a couple of lashes on each eye and see how it works for you. If you have sensitive eyes to begin with then eyelash extensions are probably not for you. Contact lens wearers should also use extreme caution.

Above all, make sure you have your extensions done by a well trained artist that has been company certified in the proper application technique with high quality materials. Do your research to find the best value and the best trained. Compare prices, ask questions, and don’t be afraid to ask the artist to provide a list of satisfied customers. If you know people who have had them done and are very happy with the process get referrals from them and check them out. It’s most important that you find someone that you can trust, and has a good reputation for excellent service and sanitary procedures.

I have done extensive research into companies that provide eyelash extension training and there is so much hyperbole from many of them that you just have to gloss over that and look for answers to the really important questions. It doesn't matter how many celebrities are endorsing a particular company, it matters far more about the standards of training, the most up to date knowledge provided, high quality materials, and sanitation procedures. This is why I chose Shavasana Eyelash Extensions for training artists at our studio because of their high quality standards in materials and procedures, and their nationally established reputation.

And finally, for those who just can't afford the cost and maintenance of eyelash extension but looking for a more cost effective way to boost lash length and volume, I strongly suggest Fast Lash by Japonesque. This is a dry white polyester fiber that is used in combination with your mascara application. It works on any length or condition of eyelash to lengthen and thicken in minutes. It comes off easily with the regular removal of your mascara. It's not recommended for sensitive eyes or extended contact lens wearers, but I recommend Natural Born Cosmetics™ Hi-Define Volumizing Eye Lash Primer and Conditioner as an alternative as it really does a great job of boosting the length and volume of your mascara application.